tagHow ToGuide to Keeping WereCats

Guide to Keeping WereCats

bydragonfeather©

FOREWORD : On Pet Play

Pet play is a form of erotic role-play, in which one or more of the participants takes on the role of a real or imaginary animal, including appropriate mannerisms and behaviour of that animal. Other participants in the role play may take on the roles of other animals, or of the owner, trainer, rider, or caretaker of the animal(s).

Typically, the submissive party takes on the animal role. It is, however, also possible for the dominant party to take on the animal role, and dominate his or her submissive(s) that way - for example, holding the submissive down with a bite on the neck. Equally, a normally meek and timid wife may "transform" into a werewolf or wicked catgirl, and take the upper hand and dominate her partner.

Like much of erotic play and role-play, animal role-play in an erotic or relationship context is entirely defined by the people involved and by their mood and interests at the time of play. People engage in pet play for many reasons, ranging from the humiliation aspect of reducing or transforming a human being to animal status, or the loss of inhibition associated with that animal nature, to taking on a role which allows for nurturing and change from usual roles in everyday life. In some cases, pet play is simply seen as a loving, quiet, cuddling time where there is no need for verbalisations, and the simple act of stroking, rubbing, and holding the other person is satisfying or reassuring in and of itself for those involved.

The most common animals for submissives to identify as are ponies (horses), puppies (dogs, or wolves), pigs, and kittens (cats, or lions, etc.). Other animals such as bunnies (rabbits) and cows are less common. More fantastical critters, such as were-animals and catgirls, are also less common.

Pony play often involves the practice and training that a horse owner or trainer would put their horse through. Ponies are usually trained in dressage, to pull a light cart or sulky, or as riding ponies, to carry their owners on their shoulders or back (note that the human back is not strong enough to take the weight of an adult, so riding on the back of a pony who is on all fours is largely symbolic, with the rider actually taking most of his or her own weight).

Puppy play may involve the sorts of training and interaction that a human would have with a biological canine, including obedience training, going for walks, and playing games such as 'fetch'. It often also includes tradition BDSM elements of discipline and punishment. Playing the role of a puppy means giving complete and unconditional love and obedience, in return for the protection and loyalty that a dog can expect from his master.

Kitten play is similar to puppy play, with the main differences being the differences between how a human owner would interact with a pet cat and with a pet dog. A cat might not play fetch, or walk on a leash (although with time, and patience, you can teach them to do both those things), but you wouldn't hesitate to clean a cat's ears or face, or feed her, or give her fresh water. In return, she trusts you completely; she knows you'll take care of her. She requires firm discipline, too - after all, you're the adult in the situation, and you know what's best for her. She's cuddly and playful, but fickle, and sometimes inclined to hide under the bed.

Pet play scenes often include some or all of the following activities:

  1. Drinking and eating from a pet bowl
  2. Crawling on all fours, often required to be naked
  3. Wearing a collar, often with spikes or bells
  4. Taking commands from your master / owner / trainer
  5. Sleeping in a pet bed or on the floor
  6. Going for walks on leash
  7. Being required to use a litterbox, or go outside
  8. Being punished for not following commands
  9. being taken to other animal play events and participating for prizes
  10. Dressing as the animal, with ears and a tail


INTRODUCTION

This is an introduction to the keeping of cats. Or, more correctly, the keeping of werecats.

Werecats are shapeshifting felines, also sometimes called ailuranthropes, or bakeneko. They are similar to werewolves (lycanthropes) excepting that their non-human shapes are feline rather than canine or lupine. Each specific type of werecat may also be called by its species name, eg. weretiger for a werecat whose non-human form is a tiger. The specific species can be any feline, including fantastical or extinct ones, although lions, tigers, leopards, and domestic cats appear to be the most common.

Owning a pet werecat can be a rewarding experience, as long as you understand the committment and dedication necessary. Remember that a werecat is not disposable; once you own a werecat, you may not be able to find a new home for her if the situation does not work out. Werecat ownership requires thorough research and preparation prior to bringing one home, which is where this guide can help.

BASICS

First, consider if a werecat is the best choice for a pet. You can get much of the satisfaction of keeping a werecat by keeping a regular housecat, or even one of the large cats, such as a cougar. Werecats are expensive to keep, providing a wide variety of challenges to the conscientious owner, and are difficult to train. Even a completely tame werecat can present problems, and requires a huge investment of time and energy. On the other hand, a werecat can make an extremely rewarding pet if trained and treated correctly.

Werecats, unlike regular housecats, will not be happy if kept permanently indoors. At a minimum, your werecat requires enough space to exercise and run around outdoors, and regular walks. Most werecats will not willingly walk on a leash, but it is possible to train them to do so (see TRAINING).

If you are confident in your werecat, it is generally safe to allow her to roam at will. Fortunately, most werecats have very good road-sense, and are will avoid dangerous situations. It is a good idea, however, to ensure that your werecat is outfitted with a collar and an ID tag with your name and phone number, in case she becomes lost or is injured. You may also consider implanting an RFID chip to assist in tracking and identifying her, or engaging in GPS tracking to monitor her whereabouts.

Ensure that your werecat has regular veterinary (medical) checkups. It is your responsibility to monitor her health, as werecats will often hide or deny symptoms of pain, illness, or injury unless it is very bad, or will obtain sympathy and treats. Note that this applies to emotional and psychological pain as well as physical pain, and care must be taken so that your werecat cannot hide any emotional hurts she is suffering.

It is important to remember that your werecat may act independent, but she still relies on you to provide her with food, water, safe shelter, veterinary care, and love. Werecats vary in terms of how demanding they are as pets, so let yours guide you in the level of attention she wants, whether it's your hand for petting or your lap for sitting. Provide her with the necessary creature conforts, and give her the companionship she seeks, and she'll be content.

PETTING

Most cats like to be petted, and as your werecat grows more comfortable around you and her trust in you increases, she will be more relaxed about allowing you to touch her. However, it is very important when petting a new or scared werecat, or petting a werecat who has just been sleeping and may be disoriented, to go slowly.

Let the werecat sniff you before you pet her, so she can become comfortable with you. Extend a hand or finger, and allow the werecat to touch her nose to your finger(s). If she shows no interest in your hand, or stares at it suspiciously, reconsider your intention to pet her; it may be better ot try some other time when the werecat is in a better mood. However, if the werecat sniffs your fingers and then rubbs her chin or the side of her face against your hand, or brushes her body against you, chances are she is open to being petted.

Pet the werecat's head lightly with your fingers. Focus on the middle of the forehead and just up into the hairline, and the side of the head just behind the ears. Use the pads of your fingers, and apply gentle pressure. While most werecats like scratching, it's not a good idea to try it if you're not familiar with cats in general. You might scratch too hard, or too fast. Some werecats will get fussy if you scratch them in a way they're not used to. It's very hard, however, to go wrong with petting with your fingers.

Rub the palm of your hand from the back of the head down the neck and along the back, all the way to the tail bone, then begin again. Apply gentle pressure, and make it one smooth, slow motion. Don't touch the tail, or move your hand along to the side. If the werecat like what you're doing, she will arch her back to add mroe pressure to your hand. When you bring your hand up tot he front, the werecat will rub her head firmly against your hand to encourage you to do it again. If the werecat cowers away from your hand, or simply walks away, stop petting her.

While some werecats thoroughly enjoy being petted under the chin, many will get fussy if strangers try. Similarly, while many werecats enjoy having their chests, breasts, and nipples petted, they may become extremely fussy of a stranger tries it, or if they are not in the mood. Stay away from the tummy; even if the werecat rolls on her back, do not take this as an invitation. Most werecats do not like having their tummies petted. If a werecat is feeling very relaxed and affectionate, she may tolerate her tummy being gently stroked by someone she knows well and trusts.

Sometimes when you're petting your purring werecat, she may bite you out of the blue. This behaviour isn't well understood even by experienced animal behaviourists, but it is thought that some werecats just have very sensitive spots or a very limited tolerance for being touched. Werecats do vary widely in how much they'll let you pet, fondle, hold, or touch them. There are usually warning signs, but the signals can be subtle and hard to detect.

Look for:

  1. restlessness
  2. tail twitching
  3. ears turning back, or flicking back and forth
  4. turning or moving her head towards your hand
  5. a sharp meow, low growl, or a hiss
  6. she may put her teeth lightly on you to tell you to stop


When you see any of these signals, it is time to stop petting the werecat immediately, and let her sit on your lap or go her own way. Never yell or hit; any kind of physical punishment almost always makes the problem worse, as it makes the werecat more likely to bite or avoid you. She might fear you and/or associate petting with punishment.

If you have a werecat who doesn't like to be petted, or doesn't like a particular part of her body to be petted, you could try to win her over with rewards. Food rewards such as chocolate, sliced mango, or smoked fish sometimes work, but it is best to determine on an individual basis what the best reward/treat is for your werecat. Some werecats will respond to verbal approval alone, while others require more material motivation.

Before your werecat displays any of the irritable behaviours described above, offer her a special tidbit of food, or alternative treat. pet her lightly for a short time, while offering her treats. She'll come to associate being stroked with more pleasant things. Stop petting before you see the signs of irritation; if you keep petting until the werecat reacts badly, you've defeated the purpose. Each time you work with your werecat, try to pet her for slightly longer periods using the treats.

It is good practice to casually pet any werecat walking by or lying within arms reach when you enter a room, if you are familiar with them. They enojoy the attention, and the acknowledgement of their presence. If a werecat deigns to meet you at the door, this should be encouraged with petting and possibly treats.

PETTING : SEX

Part of the joy of owning a werecat is taking advantage of the combination of feline sensuality and human intelligence and physiognomy. Most werecats are sensual, highly sexual beings, and enjoy sex with other werecats as well as with their masters or mistresses. Female werecats are, like female humans, more or less constantly in heat, and receptive to sexual overtures. Male werecats, like tomcats and male humans, are randy a lot of the time, and perfectly prepared to become randy at a moment's notice much of the rest of it.

However, the same caveats apply to sexual and erotic petting or your werecat as to any other sort. Allow her to get used to you, and relax; it is usually a good idea to start with non-sexual petting, and move to sexual petting once your werecat has shown her desire to be touched, by rubbing her face or body against you. Every werecat is different, and it is up to the individual to move cautiously, and discover how best to engage with his pet.

Do note that most werecats will scratch and bite during sex unless pinned with a bite or a firm grip on the back of the neck. This scratching and biting is not intended to be combative, in most cases; it is merely the werecat's reaction to extreme stimulation.

GROOMING

All werecats, long or short haired, should be brushed regularly to keep their hair and skin healthy, prevent matting and tangling of their hair, and to reduce shedding. They also need to have their claws clipped to keep them from ingrowing, or becoming dangerously long. Grooming is a good opportunity to discover any lumps, fleas, injuries, etc. and to bond with your kitty. Spending quality time with your werecat can bring about dramatic improvements in temperament and behaviour.

Try setting aside a few minutes every day, either in the morning or the evening, to groom and pet your werecat. While brushing or combing, talk to her about your day. Try using a drybrush for the less furry parts of your pet's body, and a comb or soft bristled brush for her hair. If you always do this at much the same time, in the same place, your pet will take comfort in the regimen - and so will you.

Incorporate teeth cleaning, ear cleaning, and/or nail trimming into your routine. Trimming your werecat's claws every few weeks is an important part of maintaining your pet's health, and protects her, you, your family and visitors, as well as the sofa, curtains, and other furniture. if you aren't able to trim all 10 nails at once, don't worry. Few werecats will be patient for more than a few minutes, so take what you can get, praise your pet for cooperating, then be on the lookout for the next opportunity to cut the remaining nails. Massage is also a wonderful way to connect with your pet, and it will not only improve your werecat's health, it will relax you, too.

TRAINING

Werecats are perhaps slightly less recalcitrant on average than most felines, but they are by no means easy to train.

It's true that werecats, like all other felines, usually have their own ideas about how to do things. Even so, most werecats can be taught not to scratch, eat the houseplants, or jump up on the kitchen counter. With repeated, gentle and consistent training, your cat will learn the house rules. Don't yell or hit her. Use a squirt gun, or a whistle or other noise-making device to startle (not scare) your cat if you catch her doing something you don't like. Remember to provide a suitable alternative to meet her needs - for example, a scratching post, and something to climb on.

Unlike dogs and children, cats are unlikely to come to you just because you want them to obey, and werecats are no exception. However, a werecat who knows she will be warmly petted, brushed, will receive a treat, or an extended period of lap-napping is more likely to get up, stretch, and then wander over to you (displaying for all intents and purposes the attitude that it was her idea in the first place). No animal will come to you willingly if you are raising your voice, or they think they are going to be punished.

Don't punish your werecat for unwanted behaviour; instead reward her for doing something you like. With encouragement, and plenty of treats, you can accomplish great things.

If you want your werecat to repeat a behaviour, reward that behaviour. People frequently reward behaviour that they don't really want to encourage. For example, when your werecat talks to you, do you talk to her, do you pet her, do you give her attention or a treat? What about when she meows? You're teaching your werecat that meowing brings rewards. If you don't reward her meowing, in other words if you ignore her when she meows, she's unlikely to become very vocal. If you want her to meow, but not to talk, reward her when she communicates with meows, and ignore her when she talks.

You may be sorely tempted to yell at your werecat if you catch her sitting next to a broken vase, or clawing the furniture, but punishing your werecat after the fact is ineffective. She won't connect the punishment with something she's already done and forgotten about, no matter how you explain it to her. Instad, she'll think you're yelling at her for whatever she's doing at that very moment, which might be welcoming you home from work.

Yelling, hitting, shaking, or other physical punishments will only make your werecat fearful and confused, and could lead to her avoiding you altogether. Note that communication is very important on this point; gently punishing a werecat for some infraction, when she knows you are not seriously distressed, is more a form of extreme play than a punishment. Equally, spanking, whipping, or otherwise indulging in sensation play with your werecat because it gives you pleasure is not a punishment, and your werecat can easily be trained to understand the difference. With patience, she can be trained to enjoy or at least tolerate these sessions in the same way that she enjoys being groomed and petted.

Motivation is the key to training. Money and love are great motivators for people. Toys, walks, and car rides do it for dogs. For most cats, it's food; they care less about "good kitty" than about good kitty treats. Werecats, being contrary and complex creatures, have varying motivations. Food is a good place to start, and for werecats who enjoy being petted, physical caresses and affection often act as a powerful motivator. Once your werecat has bonded to you, your verbally expressed approval may be enough to motivate her. Sexual arousal and orgasm are often powerful motivators as well, as most werecats are highly sexed, with rapacious libidos, and outings or new toys can be good motivators as well.

So, to motivate your werecat, you're going to reward her with a treat every time she uses the scratching post, lets you brush her, or brings you a beer from the fridge. Scratch her head and tell her she's a pretty girl at the same time, but make sure you give her that treat. Smart werecats will soon associate the behaviour with getting treats. Once your werecat is displaying the desired behaviour reliably, you can start weaning her off the treats, and make her settle for emotional ones such as "good kitty", a toss of her fuzzy ball, or a scratch under the chin. Give her treats three times out of every four that she does the correct behaviour, then reduce it to half the time, then about a third of the itme, and so on until you're only rewarding her occasionally with a treat. Continue the praise and non-food rewards. Your werecat will learn that if she keeps offering the desired behaviours, eventually she'll get what she wants - your praise and an occasional treat.

Don't make the mistake of thinking that the werecat is particularly interested in giving you what you want. She is still mainly interested in what she wants; if approached correctly, however, you can ensure that what she wants (your praise and an occasional treat) are only available if she gives you what you want. When attempting to introduce new behaviours (see TRICKS), be careful to ensure that your werecat knows exactly what behaviour she is being rewarded for, otherwise she will not do it again.

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