Question for engineers or other handy persons.

superlittlegirl

Polymorphous Perverse
Joined
Apr 9, 2002
Posts
6,690
Hi all,

I am in need of technical assistance. I would like to install a bar in my house that is capable of bearing my 130 lb. weight. It's meant for doing chin-ups, but I forsee other more naughty applications as well.

The span I need to place the bar within is 81 inches wide. I'd like to to use 1 and 1/4 inch galvanized steel pipe, threaded, screwed into flanges on either end. I plan to attach the flanges directly into the studs, but I'm not sure of the best fasteners to use. I have had good results with lag-screws in the past, but I'm not sure if they'd be too macho for the task at hand.

I am not a math-minded individual, so I am unsure of how to determine if the span is too great to safely bear my weight. Does anyone out there have the formulas for determining maximum weight bearing loads for bars placed across varying spans?

Thanks in advance,
Freya
 
That's quite a span!

Nearly 7 feet...whew. Having spent years putting up curtains, drapes and awnings i've dealt with the hardware and the pipe a good deal.

That's a bit more weight than most of the applications i've been involved with, (don't take that personally, doll) but i'll bet you'll need to think of a way to add a center brace.

Will this be across a door frame, or attached to and projecting from a wall? (i still can't imagine the area yet) You'll probably want some sort of support from directly above as well.

Lag bolts don't sound out of line, as long as they have a good medium to "bite" into.

Add a bit more data please and i'll be watching this thread. Why do i think that the crafty Mr. Blandings might have some ideas on this?

Until...

Blue
 
Lol............I love it when a chick talks like that.........and uses words like "flanges" and "studs".................heheheh.......o cool........


I myself have a hook in a beam and it need to hold about 225 pounds without swinging so you have to figure the "G" force of the play you could ever do to it............I would find the biggest you can fit in there.......I over plan for everything...........Nothing like that dropping and getting hurt from it...........Plus it would really ruin your night...........

I want to say 3 or 4 times the weight you wish it to hold.........I read it somewhere but can't find the fucking link at the moment.................



You do sound sexy when you talk like that.......;)
 
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This chick wields power tools with aplomb.

Blue-- I've changed my mind about the diameter of the pipe I want to use. I've stepped down from the initial 1 and 1/4 inch to a 3/4 inch pipe. My hands are too small to get a good grip on the bigger one. I'm afraid I'm at risk of compromising stability, though, so I'm off to the hard-core physics links.

Wizard-- I'm glad my down & dirty shop talk is getting you all bothered. :) I actually feel very sexy when I'm in building-things-mode. There's a sassy virago behind my skirts and mascara.

I'll be sure to keep you updated on my soon-to-be buff biceps, though. Now if only I could find someone to tie up.... or someone to tie me up.......<sigh>

--Freya
 
Oh, Blue....

I want it to span my kitchen's entrance. I'd be drilling into corner studs on both ends. My place is a studio, and the kitchen is a recessed space (about 8 ft wide and 6 ft deep) There's no door frame, just sheetrock covered walls. But the studs are there-- I tapped for them and heard the reassuring thud.

--Freya
 
God that sounds sexy when woman talks engineering :p
I would put it up for you ;) but not sure if my Dom ( for this time she wants to be one ) will allow me too. I've been known to be handy and also I do engineering so here some site that might give you a hint what to account for building your thingie, just keep in mind this site is oriented for people who subscribe there and if you don't have subscription it will let you look at only few pages then will tell you that you need to subscribe :(, so best bet for now go to the second link first, if you can't find what you are looking for, log on later to the first link:
http://www.efunda.com/formulae/solid_mechanics/beams/theory.cfm

this one is more specific for the case you are talking about:
http://www.efunda.com/formulae/solid_mechanics/beams/casestudy_display.cfm?case=simple_interload

If you still having problems, tell more about your dimensions and I will try to do it over the weekend for you, it shouldn't be to dificult, simple beam load :)
Hope you will enjoy your creation :)
:rose:
 
Thanks, blueeyed!

I'll go check the links right now! I appreciate the shove in the right direction immensely.

I had no idea that shop-talk was a sexy trait in women, but you guys are making me feel positively proud to be the tomboy that I am! (I always wondered why the home depot guys followed me around the store-- I just thought they suspected me of shoplifting or something. Maybe they simply wanted to talk about the weight-bearing potential of various length beams all this time.... )

Thanks again....
Freya

p.s. for Wizard. Your .sig reminds me of one of my favorite erotic stories of all time. It's called "ReBecca" and it's written by Vicki Hendricks. The main character is a siamese twin, and the story is very smart, and hot. Find this story in the anthology _The Best American Erotica_ edited by Susie Bright. Read it. It's good.
 
Freya,

Did you ever read the children's story (the title eludes me) about the hen who was making bread? She asked for volunteers to help prepare the bread and was always turned down...yet when the bread was made, she had plenty of creatures willing to help her eat it.

Well, I'm one of those animals. I couldn't imagine constructing anything that doesn't come in a box, with big pictures, but I'll certainly be there when you're looking for people to tie to that bar!

::big cheesy grin::

I hope you get everything constructed cheaply and safely.
 
Oh, Quint, I hope you will!

Your words make me shiver with delight. *Of course* you can come play on my playground!! Maybe we can talk someone else of the Dom/me persuasion to come over too, so we can BOTH be tied up. That would just be too yummy.

The story, Quint, is "The Little Red Hen". Margaret Atwood wrote a great foil to the story called "The Little Red Hen Tells All" and you should read it if you haven't already. It's good.

Thanks for the encouragement, Quint, and be absolutely sure that I'll keep you updated. Your enthusiasm makes me ever go eager. . . .

Freya
 
Ooooo, this is just getting too exciting!

I am goosebumped all over! Yes, yes! This is getting better all the time. I never thought a technical thread would turn into something so.......exciting!
*blushing and grinning*

juicygirl-- you're welcome over here anytime, darling. And maybe we can take some photos for the next in your series of award-winning, fuckin' sexy AVs.

--Freya
 
Superlittlegirl, after your workout and your BDSM play can we curl up and read together. I love Atwood and Susie Bright is my mentor?

I agree with you also that there is something very sexy about being in "project" mode.
 
oh, yes!

HotXBunz,

Oh, that sounds wonderful. The thing I miss the very most about having a lover is reading to each other in bed. I'd be really into hearing about who else you like to read; PM me if you like.

--Freya
 
Slightly unscienetific, but I since I work in a machine shop I took a piece of 3/4 black iron pipe and hung it between a shelf and the forklift 81 inches away. It bowed about 1.5 inches under my 230 pounds, but was nowhere near breaking. I would recommend using slip-fit flanges, because if they are threaded onto the pipe the bowing action will eventually rip the lag bolts from the wall. If the length of the pipe can move freely all the forces are down the face of the wall (shear) and your setup will last indefinitely. I must add that a brace in the middle to eliminate flexing would not be a bad idea.

Enjoy. :)
 
thanks, Bigdog!

It's really cool that you took my inquiry to work with you. I appreciate the hands-on experimentation. I have never seen (or heard of) slip-fit flanges, but I can do a quickie web-search to find out what they look like. Would the central brace of which you speak look like an inverted T? Maybe with a T coupling connected into a length of pipe that would go up to a solid support in the ceiling? Actually, if I brought two supports down from the ceiling, I could have two (symmetrical) fixed points for tying or clipping restraints. This idea keeps growing more and more elaborate, but more appealing, I must say. Thanks for your help, and I'm off to investigate the slip-fit flanges.

--Freya
 
As a civil engineer I would add that while the bar may hold, the downward forces would also tend to draw the studs of the wall to gether, cracking the sheetrock or allowing failure.

The floor joists above offer the best support and are designed to carry load. You could alter your bar length to any multiple of 16" based on joist spacing.

Materials needed: 2 screw on flanges with screws, 2 pipe nipples of the length from the ceiling to the height that you want the bar at, two elbows, and the bar.
 
You know what? As always, i'm humbled and impressed by the knowledge, intelligence, and willingness of Lit citizens to help other Lit citizens.

There are an incredible array of talented and generous people here, and this thread - and the help offered - is just the most recent example of that.

Thank you all for your astounding generosity here in this thread, in thie forum, and throughout the Lit kingdom. You must be really kind people in your everyday lives, too.
:rose:
cym
 
first build you a header with a stud that sticks down a foot and a half in the center.drill a hole in it about 4 inches up from the end the same size as the pipe.

then get you two peices of 2x4 for the ends of the pipe aproximently a foot and a half(or they could reach all the way up and down the door facing)

measure and line up the pipe and drill wholes in the end boards.

slide the pipe through the header board first, then slide on the end boards.

get some help holding it up in place.
use 16 penny nails and nail it into place.

there it's framed into the door way!
:)

p.s.
the stud in the center that hangs down can also be rounded on the end in the shape of a "u"

goodluck with your project and i hope ya understand what i was describing.LOL it works though if ya can figure it out.
 
RTWudder said:
As a civil engineer I would add that while the bar may hold, the downward forces would also tend to draw the studs of the wall to gether, cracking the sheetrock or allowing failure.

The floor joists above offer the best support and are designed to carry load. You could alter your bar length to any multiple of 16" based on joist spacing.

Materials needed: 2 screw on flanges with screws, 2 pipe nipples of the length from the ceiling to the height that you want the bar at, two elbows, and the bar.

seeing as how us engineer types always have bright ideas ... I my esteemed colleague does have a good idea.... hanging the bar from the ceiling as described will be a lot better than going from wall to wall ... but ... only if the hanging load (you) will not be swinging.... If you are planning to swing from the bar this will impose lateral loads... as opposed to purely vertical loads...and the flanges will soon let loose from the ceiling.

So.... probably the best idea is to span from wall to wall ... as your original idea ... but then add one or two hangers from the ceiling to spread the load more evenly. hope that makes sense.
 
not sure about 'chin up bar' and the exact stresses involved but if you want something that can take a good deal of weight and is good for hanging things off - do you live in a house with a loft.
Best thing is to go up there and hook your supports over a beam - nice and strong and practically the only way you can get anything suspended.
Like all DIY/building don't try and make one thing do two jobs - it will do them both but not as well as a focused tool.

Freya - we should get together - me in my work jeans and ripped T and I can just see you in dungarees and a skimpy vest top!!
 
simple support

Hi there. Hope the project is not already complete.

I constructed something similar here a little while ago. It was a shorter span, 5'. But otherwise much the same.

I rejected the 3/4" pipe, for being too wimpy. Your longer span would amplify that issue. The 1" pipe is in place now, connected with ordinary pipe flanges with lag screws through drywall to the studs behind. I have had zero problems with it.

Some tips: Use galvanized pipe and fittings. The black pipe will be forever dirty, unless carefully prepped and painted.

As carefully as you can have that pipe threaded for exactly the right size you need. Not too much, not too little. Unlike bolt threads, NPT fittings are tapered and have a narrow range for solid adjustment.

Predrill for the long lag screws. So you are able to get a good bite into studs in the wall without splitting them. There ought to be a pair on both sides of your opening. You want to get a full purchase into them. Don't use drywall screws. They will break.

The notion of hanging an intermediate support to the ceiling is a good one. Provided you can arrive at rock solid method to connect it to the joists above. An ordinary pipe flange may not afford this simply. That joist overhead is probably only and inch and a half wide. The pipe flange is a good bit wider.

good luck.
 
Re: Thanks, blueeyed!

Originally posted by superlittlegirl I had no idea that shop-talk was a sexy trait in women, but you guys are making me feel positively proud to be the tomboy that I am! (I always wondered why the home depot guys followed me around the store-- I just thought they suspected me of shoplifting or something. Maybe they simply wanted to talk about the weight-bearing potential of various length beams all this time....

Sweetie, if that is you in the AV, I know why the Home Depot guys follow you around. And, yes, a tomboy is very sexy. They don't mind getting a little dirty, if you know what I mean.
 
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