OutBack Mystery

"How did that go?" Mike asked.

"Fine." I responded. "It's probably too early for the boss to send us out. But I've got enough for a story. Might depend what we get this afternoon."

It was lunch time already. We considered our options. Pub or Shop / Petrol Station. Not really much of a choice. The shop would be quicker as they should have something already made. Marjorie at the pub would need to make something.

We jumped in the vehicle and drove up to the shop . We parked and headed inside. A youngish girl was behind the counter. Mike grabbed two soft drinks from the fridge while I had a look at the food options. We decided on a couple of sandwiches and I got a Chicko roll. I don't know if Chicko rolls exist outside country roadhouses in Australia. I doubt if anyone really knows what is inside them but when you're on the road they taste great and hopefully don't do too much damage to your body.

We ate our lunch on a bench seat on the verandah outside the shop. It wasn't too bad in the shade and you could watch the world go by. Though in this instance we saw one vehicle come into town while we were there.

"Come on." I said once we'd finished. "Are you driving or me?"

"You can." replied Mike as he stood up. "I might be able to get some shots on the way."

"OK." I said heading to the vehicle. "Sometimes I really do think you care more about that camera than me."

Mike poked his tongue out as we hopped in.

I started the engine, reversed out and headed north out of town.

The country was flat with spinifex and a few trees. In the heat of the day all the animals were resting and trying to stay in the shade. Nothing was moving apart from the heat haze on the road ahead. Mike took a couple of shots of the Burrungarra Ranges as we got closer but other than that it was pretty monotonous.

About 45 minutes drive up the road we came across a sign indicating the turn off to the Burringa Aboriginal community. I slowed down and turned off the main road down a smaller track. It was a bit slower going as the track had quite a few corrugations and some sandy spots. But all in all the track was quite good. After about another 20 minutes we could see some buildings come into view.

"Looks like we're here." I said. "You may have to do some of the talking if the elders don't want to talk to a woman."

"Yeah. I thought the same." Mike replied. "We'll see how things go."

Aboriginal culture is divided across the genders. Anyone who grew up in Australia knows about Men's Business and Woman's Business in aboriginal culture. Some sacred sites are for men and some are for women. It's forbidden for women to go to a men's site and visa versa. Then there are finer details about which family knows or does what, who can marry who, even who can talk to who. It's quite complicated for people who aren't familiar with it. But it also needs to be remembered this is a culture which has existed for 60,000 years.

We managed to park in some shade in the car park and headed to a building which looked like the admin office. We went inside. A young girl was sitting behind a reception desk.

"Hi. We're Stephanie and Mike." I said as she looked up. "We've arrange to come out for a visit."

"Hi. Yes we're expecting you. How was your trip?" She answered.

"Fine." I said. "We got in late last night."

"No worries. I'll tell George you're here." The girl replied reaching for the phone and dialling an extension. She spoke for a little while and then hung up. "He's on his way." She continued.

A minute later George, the community manager, came through a doorway. He would have been in his mid 40s, greying hair with the distinguished features of the aboriginal men of the area.

"G'Day, George Newman." He introduced himself reaching out for a handshake to Mike and then myself. "Just call me George." He continued smiling. "I gather you found the place OK?"

"Yeah we got into Yarabunda last night and spent the night in town." I answered.

"OK great. Come with me. The elders are all in the square at the moment. I'll give you a run down as we walk over."

George opened the door for us and we followed him out. On the way over George pointed out buildings and facilities and gave a short history of the community, the people and the proposed gold mine. After a while we came to an open area in the centre of the community. There was a large open shelter with a number of people sitting on the ground under it.

As we got closer it was clear that a number of them were painting. Large canvases were on the ground and a number of the women were using brushes made from twigs to place dots on the painting in the style most people think of when someone mentions "Aboriginal painting." Some of the men were doing carvings or decorating wooden objects. Some others were making things with feathers, string and bark. A couple of others were grinding ochre and other soft rocks.

George introduced us to everyone. Then we sat down on the ground with a group of the male elders. As I expected they talked more to Mike than myself. We asked about the proposed mining.

The elders said they were glad it was away from the Burrungarra Ranges as they were important spiritually and also for water and hunting. There were still some concerns that it may impact on the ranges and they had asked for more information.

Albert, probably the main elder, explained "The Dreaming" of the Burrungarra Ranges to us. Most Australians know that for Aboriginies "The Dreaming" tells the stories of their connection to the land, including the creation stories. It used to be referred to as The Dreamtime, which was a bit of a mis-understanding as the stories continue through to present day.

Albert explained that in The Dreaming a giant snake laid her eggs where the edge of the ranges now lie. She went off to catch some food and get some water. When she came back a goanna had found the eggs and had started to dig them up. The snake was angry about this and attacked the goanna to protect her eggs.

The snake and the goanna fought for a long time. The goanna's feet scratched the ground and through rocks up to make the Burrungarra Ranges. The snake's tail and body flicked and pushed across the planes to form the rivers and creeks which flow out of the ranges. The water holes on the edge of the ranges are where the eggs were laid and where the goanna was digging to try to get to them.

Eventually the snake managed to kill the goanna. By this stage of the fight they were at the top of the ranges. The goanna's body turned to stone and became the highest peaks of the ranges. The snake slithered down, forming the main Burrungarra Gorge as she did.

In order to protect the eggs the snake formed a cave at the top of the gorge and waited there until the eggs hatched.

Albert explained that there were a number of sacred sites in the ranges associated with this story. Some were men's sites and a number were women's.

While Albert was talking I noticed a couple of the women were looking at me intently. When Albert had finished one of them came up and said something in his ear. It was too soft to hear anything but he nodded in response.

Albert spoke to a couple of the others in their local language. The others nodded in response.

George looked at us and explained, "Albert's suggested going and looking at a couple of places in the ranges. Unfortunately Stephanie they're men's sites so you won't be able to come."

"That's OK." I replied, "Mike and I are well aware of that and expected the same."

"Good." Continued George. "We'll leave you with the ladies then. Should be an hour of so."

George, Mike and the male elders got up and headed towards the car park.

"See you in a while." Said Mike. "I'll take notes and see what pictures I can take."

"No worries." I replied. I was hoping that Mike would be allowed to take some photos, but realised he wouldn't be able to take images of sensitive sites.

I got up and moved closer to the women and their artwork. The one who had been looking at me most was called Marlee. I sat near her and admired her painting.

She started up a conversation by asking "Where are you from?"

"We drove up from Perth last night." I replied

"No." She responded, "Where's your country?"

I looked at her with a blank expression on my face. When talking to an Australian Aborigine "Country" means where your tribe and ancestors come from, even if you weren't born there.

"I've lived in Perth pretty much all my life." I eventually replied.

Marlee looked at me hard for a long time. Eventually she asked "Where is your family from?"

"My parents and grandparents lived for a long time around Meekatharra." I said

Marlee said something in her language to the others. There were a few nods and comments in return.

"Yamatji land." She said. "What were your parents and grandparent's names?"

"Mum and Dad are Steven and Julie Robinson. Grandparents on Dad's side were Shaun and Karen Robinson. On Mum's side grandparents were Brian and Jenny Throssel." I continued.

When I mentioned my grandparent's name there were quite a few murmurs and nodding of heads from the women. I stopped talking almost mid sentence and my voice trailed off when I heard them.

"Brian Throssel." Marlee said after a while. She paused and then continued "He was a good man. Ngangkari. Medicine man. Everyone in the area knew him. He helped a lot of people. He didn't have any sons so he couldn't pass on his knowledge. There's been no Ngangkari for two generations now. Not good for country."

I listened while Marlee was talking with an expression of disbelief. She was say I had an aboriginal ancestor. That made me an aborigine. No one in my family had said anything like this to me.

Eventually I managed to say, "You must be wrong. I'm not an aborigine. My parents would have told me ..." I really didn't know what to say.

Marlee shook her head. "No. We can see it in your face. You have your grandfather's spirit in you. You probably don't realise it but his spirit and knowledge can be passed through you. Maybe your parents didn't tell you about your grandfather because you look white. That used to happen a lot."

What Marlee said was true. In past generations many people who were only part aboriginal would identify as being white so they would fit in with the rest of the community. Now with better understanding a lot of people have started to acknowledge their background.

My mind drifted off for a while but I was brought back to reality by all the ladies talking to each other in their own language. They were evidentially getting excited about something.

After a while Marlee looked at me and said "We were planning on having a ceremony today. You must stay. You must stay the night. We had a feeling something special was going to happen tonight. Now we know why and why you're here. The spirits have brought you. The country has been sick for a long time. Now we have a chance to heal it. It's been dry. Too dry. If we perform the ceremonies the rain will come."

I looked at Marlee without knowing what to say.

Marlee continued. "Mike. The man with you. He is your husband?"

I nodded.

"Good." Marlee carried on. "Do you want children?"

"Yes. We have discussed starting a family but hadn't decided when." I replied.

All the ladies nodded and smiled at each other.

"Very good." Said Marlee. "We will have the ceremony late this afternoon. Then have something to eat. Then you will come up us to a women's place. We will spend the night there. Mike can stay here with the men."

All the women were smiling and looking at each other and me. I felt I couldn't disappoint them.

"OK." I said eventually.

Marlee looked at one of the younger women and said "Julia. Go and tell the men. It's all organised."

Julia got up and ran off quickly. Marlee gave some orders to some of the others and they went off to prepare for the ceremony and tell other members of the community.

I stayed with Marlee and she explained the paintings the women had been working on along with some other stories from the community.

After an hour or so the men returned with Mike and George amongst them. Marlee and a couple of the other women started talking to the men.

Mike came over to me and I explained what had happened as best as I could.

I finished with "So it looks like we might be spending the night here."

"Fine by me." Was all Mike said. I expected as much. Both of us were always up for an adventure.

After a couple of minutes George came over.

"Marlee's explained what she, Stephanie here and the others have been talking about." He said. "Are you happy to stay?"

"Yes." We both said nodding.

"Did Marlee explain where they would be taking you Stephanie?" George asked

"No." I replied. "Just a vague description."

"OK." He continued. "It's up the main gorge and off to one side. It's the cave Albert told you about in the Dreaming story. Anyone can go up the gorge but the cave and the pool in front of it are a women's site. Men can't go there. They want you to spend the night in the cave. If you're happy to do so we've got plenty of places we can put Mike up. But it is up to you."

I thought for a minute and looked at Mike.

"Your decision." He said.

"OK." I said looking at Mike. "We'll stay." I continued turning to George.

"Great." Said George. "I'll tell the others."

"We should probably let Marjorie at the hotel know. They are expecting us." Mike said. "If we don't turn up they might send out a search party."

"And Craig said something about dinner." I added.

"No worries." Said George. "I'll give them a ring from the office."

George headed over the Marlee and had a quick word to her. Then he headed off towards the office.

Marlee came over, took my hand and started to lead me away. "We have to do some preparation." She explained.

Looked over my shoulder at Mike and said "Bye" with a smile on my face. He grinned back and waved.

Marlee led me through the community to where the other women had gathered. A few younger girls had joined the group. Marlee did the introductions. There were too many for me to remember all their names.

Marlee explained that they'd arranged for the dance ceremony to be in an hour's time. They wanted me to join in the dance. Laughing but shaking my head I agreed. Marlee and two of the others started to show me the steps. Some of the others were making string and bark decorations. A couple of others were taking ochre and soft white stone power and making paint for body marking.

The steps weren't too difficult. Aboriginal dances often mimic birds and animals so once Marlee explained what was happening I could dance well enough not to embarrass myself. After half an hour or so Marlee was happy with my progress.

"Good enough with the dancing." She said smiling. "But now we need to put on the markings." With that most of the women took off their tops and sat down in pairs.

I'd been expecting this. Aboriginal women dances are done bare breasted. I thought about it for a while and being in a group didn't seem too bad. I'd been to enough topless and nude beaches not to be self-conscious. I took my top off and sat down opposite one of the younger girls. She started to put marks on me using the white paint mainly but with some of the red ochre. Lines on the arms and legs. A couple of marks on my face, back and chest. I did notice that my breasts were highlighted quite a bit.

Once the markings had been applied to everyone the string and bark decorations were hand out. Arm bands a bit above the elbows, another set around my ankles and a grass skirt even though I still had my shorts on. Soon we were all ready.

A fire had been lit in the central square of the community. It looked like the word had spread quickly and all the community was there. We walked up and stood in a group to one side. The men had also been busy with preparations. About six of them were sitting down with clapping sticks and other items ready to make the music. No didgeridoos as they are only used in Northern Australia. I could see Mike and George sitting in the crowd. Mike saw me and we both nodded at each other. He didn't react to me being topless. I assume he expected it.

Just after we arrived a group of male dancers moved to the centre and performed a couple of dances. Marlee whispered in my ear explaining the meaning of the men's dance. The audience was very receptive and many joined in the clapping.

Soon it was our turn. We moved into the area in front of the audience. I wanted to hide in the back rows but Marlee dragged me into the centre. We started our dance. I was concentrating so hard on the steps and trying not to make a mistake I hardly noticed the audience. Probably a good thing as I forgot I was topless in front of strangers.

We must have done a good job as there were lots of cheers from the audience when we finished. A number of the women gave me a hug. Some of the children wrapped themselves around my legs. After a couple of minutes Mike managed to get through the crowd and give me a kiss and hug.

"That was great." He said.

"Good." I replied. "I was so nervous when we started."

"No it was fine." Mike assured me. "George said everyone will have something to eat now and then the women want to take you away. He's organise a room for me. Are you still OK with everything?"

"Yeah. I think so." I replied, still not sure what was going to happen.

Marlee came up, took my arm and started to drag me away again. "We need to have something to eat." She explained. "Then we'll head off."

Somehow or other the community had managed to throw together a good spread of food at short notice. It wasn't all traditional food. There were some yams and things but there were also vegetables you'd expect to see anywhere. All the performers stayed as they were. Marlee said the men were going to have another dance after the women had left.

After we'd eaten Marlee and most of the older women got up. It was clear we were going to head off. I got up to go with them. The men, boys, girls and younger women were staying behind.

Mike got up, gave me a kiss and hug. "Goodbye." He said. "Tell me about it tomorrow. We might get a story out of this trip. Just not the one we expected."

"Yeah. I was thinking the same thing." I responded.

We walked out to the carpark and climbed into three Landcruisers. I sat in the front of one while Marlee drove. We headed out of the community taking a track towards the Burrungarra Gorge. It took us about 15 minutes to get there. Marlee parked and we got out. We had a walk ahead of us up the gorge to the rock pools.

I have seen quite a few sights during my travels but I would still describe Burrungarra Gorge as "Stunning". The gorge narrowed quite soon after we entered it. The rocks in the walls looked like they'd been sculptured and painted by some master artist. I almost tripped a few times as I was looking around rather than watching where I was walking.

The gorge got narrower as we walked up it. The pools of water were getting bigger and taking up more of the gorge floor. So far we'd walked around them on tracks or rocks. I was beginning to wonder if we might have to swim through some of them.

I didn't have to wonder for very long as we walked around a bend and there was a poll which pretty much stretched across the entire gorge. Everyone stopped and looked at the pool.

Marlee came up to me. "Sorry I didn't ask if you could swim. I just assumed you could."

"Yeah. That's fine." I replied. "I'm quite a good swimmer."

"Good." Continued Marlee. "The cave we're going to is just past the pool. There is a path round the side. Most of us will walk around. But you and two of the other young ones need to go through the pool. You should be able to wade through most of it but will probably have to swim a bit."